Saturday, November 30, 2013

Camping in the Colourful Kimberly

Seriously have been neglecting this blog, its okay all we are still here and still on the road. This post covers a stretch of our travels that seemed to have a view much like the picture below for most of the time. We spent many, many hours getting between places, whether it was in the car off road or in the bus minus the air conditioner. After a while some of the places seemed to all merge together in a bit of a rainbow blur. One thing that came very obvious quickly was the amazing colours in this part of North west Australia. The dirt was as red as you could imagine, the sunsets as spectacular as I have ever seen and the sky so so blue.

The Cape north of Broome was to be our first adventure in the roof top camper and tents. I am not opposed to camping, I have actually done quite a bit over my time but I did make the comment to Sime that "if this goes well I may be more inclined to do more in the future". The pressure was on. Thankfully the 4 days we spent up there were great, deserted beaches with no croc sightings and sunny days not too hot yet. We travelled with our friends we met back in Ballarat which also made for great company.



Red, dust and sand everywhere at Cape Laveque
Massive tidal changes 
Sonny exploring a fish hatchery

Just a lunch stop by the beach
A beautiful camp spot at Middle Lagoon
We cautiously went swimming
I had been told how beautiful Broome was and it lived up to its reputation. We happened to plan our visit to coincide with a well known Broome event, the staircase to the moon. This is where a full moon rises over a very low tide across the mud flats to create a visual staircase. I have to admit this picture of the phenomenon is not mine but rather a postcard with a picture by a photographer who actually knew what they were doing. Our pics did not do it justice as it was beautiful.

Broome also gave us a preview to the warmer weather, we had defiantly hit the heat of North Western Australia.
Staircase to the moon, Broome
Exploring Broome's mud flats
Dakoda trying on a pearl divers helmet for size
Castaway Simon taking a stroll on Cable Beach
Another lovely sunset over Cable Beach


We then left Broome and packed up the car again for a week camping and exploring the numerous gorges of the Gibb river Road. Tunnel Creek was our first stop where we walked through a tunnel in water knee deep which was so cool and refreshing as the outside temp was now nearing 40 degrees and because it was dark we couldn't see the fresh water crocs. Windjana Gorge was next and we learnt that dragging kids on a 2 hour walk in the middle of a 40 degree day on mostly a sand track without a place to swim was crazy. CRAZY!!



Galvin Gorge, Bell Gorge, Elizabeth Station Gorges, Manning Gorge, Barnett River Gorge followed, each stunning but slightly tainted for me coaxing little legs to move in the heat on the walks in. The kids swam and jumped off rocks at every opportunity, getting more game and adventurous at each gorge. A smorgasbord or gorgeous gorges.

Galvin Gorge, here Sime played nurse to a tour group of oldies helping them in and out of the water in an attempt to prevent a broken hip
Mt Elizabeth Station had a few gorges one took over an hour of 4x4 to get to

Mt Elizabeth Station is a working cattle station and some locals got very friendly with some fellow campers
Rock art pretty well untouched at Mt Elizabeth Station

Manning gorge was accessible by a short punt ride and a long, hot rocky walk
After roughing it for the past week in the heat we washed and cleaned at the luxurious Fitzroy River Caravan park, well it had a pool and showers. Here we did another gorge but by boat this time, the kids and I were gorged out and my inner pathfinder had long gone.

Gieke Gorge
Our next stop was Kunanurra and El Questro station on the Eastern end of the Gibb River road. Here we were able to take the bus as the road was tarred to the station gates but a very slow 16km of rocky dirt from the gates to the homestead. More gorges here Emma Gorge and Chamberlain Gorge. More swimming and a little more walking.

The kids were amazed and Ryder a little worried about these willy willys. "Will they suck us up?" Ryder asked.
Zebedee Springs, El Questro Station, not cool enough for the heat



Chamberlain Gorge sunset cruise. The colours shone on the cliffs and made for a stunning backdrop for the tour guide playing guitar and singing , We still call Australia Home.
Emma gorge, walked early in the morning in an effort to escape the heat
Busta crossing the Pentacost River, not much clearance.
The scenery leaving El Questro was dry but beautiful.
We had a little stop over in Kunanurra to replenish the supplies and explore the Ord River area before heading to our last stop in Western Australia, Lake Argyle. Lake Argyle is Australias biggest water reservoir and has the Ord River catchment dam. However along with this it has a caravan park with possibly the best pool in Australia. We hired a dinghy for the day a explored the huge lake, Sonny caught a few fish and even spotted a freshwater crocodile skeleton on the banks which the boys thought was cool, but Dakoda thought was gross.


Swimming and jumping again
Infinity pool at the caravan park
Bye Bye Western Australia
So because I have been a little slack in getting to this next post we are already 2 states away but travelling through this part of Australia has made me come to a few conclusions, firstly I don't love travelling more than 200km a day in and un-airconditioned bus. Secondly I don't love walking more than an hour into a gorge in extreme heat. Thirdly I am pleased Sime pushed me a little to walk because the natural beauty was like nothing I have seen before and lastly all this said I am still enjoying the bus life and am not stopping just yet.

Monday, September 16, 2013

Sand in your Pants Vs Red Dirt Boogers

We left the family behind in Perth and reacquainted ourselves with life on the road. The weather was getting far too cold so off we headed in search of some winter sun.
Leaving the cold of Perth Behind
Our first pit stop was at the peculiar rock formations known as the Pinnicles. The kids had a great time running in between the pillars and climbing on them getting a better view. It wasn't until we were on our way out that we noticed a sign saying, "Please do not climb on the Pinnicles". Opps!!

Blaise scaling the Pinnicles

Kids amusing themselves with lego
Waiting for parts
Television has become very rare since being on the road. Mainly because we never have good reception and secondly because we seem to be far too busy. However as we headed toward Geraldton I could sense a little urgency from Sime. We parked at the main port and tried the TV so he could watch the final of the State of Origin. Luckily we got it, we were staying put at least for the next 2 hours. The 2 hours we thought we would be parked at the Port turned into a full week. We fired the bus up in the morning and soon discovered there was a serious clutch problem. So there we sat, beach front with permission from the Port Authorities and waited for a part to come from the east. A chance meeting at the coffee shop saw us bump into the Leets from Coffs Harbour who had moved west. A few BBQ's and a bit of local knowledge saw some nice surf and beautiful landscape of the North west.
Waterfront stop at Geraldton
Bus fixed, we kept on our search for some warmer weather. Just north of Geraldton we passed through some beautiful countryside. A contrasting mix of of canola paddocks, red dirt and green grass. We passed pink lakes and some rugged coastline reaching the town of Kalbarri in enough time for Sime to fit in a quick surf at Jakes Point.

Pink Lake
Dakoda the photographer, Blaise the model
From Kalbarri we spent a day doing some international travel., heading to the Hutt River Provience. I'm sure you all have heard of this guy who declared war on Australia and when he wasn't taken seriously he staked his claim on his own land. Driving through the gates it did feel as though we were crossing to another world, a bizarre sort of mix of eclectic buildings and statues. The kids were over it after an hour so we got our passports stamps by prince Leonard and we were on our way.
Prince Leonard
Shark Bay World Heritage Area is home to the famous Monkey Mia dolphins. It is also home to the less famous stromolites, ancient rock formations which are specific to the area. Just another rock platform to the kids. Shell beach was another stop in the area. This beach has no sand but rather millions of tiny white shells which crunch under your feet. We spent the day at Monkey Mia and tried not to look too desperate when the volunteers were picking people to feed the dolphins. We didn't get picked but it was amazing all the same being able to see the dolphins so close.
Spot the Stromolite
Shell Beach
Cheeky Monkey at Monkey Mia
Monkey Mia Dolphins

A stop over in Carnarvon to fill up with water and get supplies before making our way to Quobba Point. Here we did a day trip up to a place called Red Bluff, apparently if your a surfer you will know where it is. Even had to stop and do a little bush mechanics on the 4wd after part of the shokies fell out. Sime commented while we were here that he could live here. I commented I couldn't, as beautiful as it was too isolated.
Bush Mechanics

Red Bluff
Back at Quobba we snorkeled everyday. All the kids, including Ryder and Blaise picked up the mask and snorkel thing really well. The coral was amazing as was the variety of fish life, tons of reef sharks, moray eel and even a sea snake which Dakoda almost trod on.
Quobba snorkeling was great
From Quobba we spent a few great nights exploring the Ningaloo Reef at Coral Bay and Cape Range National Park just out of Exmouth. Again the snorkeling was great and the water so clear and refreshing. Unfortunately I managed to lose the photos from this leg of the trip. We took the kids on the subsea glass bottom boat, missed the whale sharks swim by days so will definitely be coming back.
More snorkeling at Cape Range, Ningaloo Reef
Boys humour at a free water park in Exmouth
Leaving the sandy coast behind we headed inland from Exmouth to Tom Price, a mining centre in the middle of red dirt country. This wasn't our destination but was interesting to see such a mix of people from all over concentrated in a mining suburban town. Each dressed in high vis gear and steel capped boots and driving their trucks complete with orange flags. Our stop also coincided with the "The Nameless Festival" Tom Prices event of the year,  so everyone was in town. 

Fern Pool, Karijini
I thought the red dirt at Tom Price was intense but at Karijini National Park it seemed more red, more fine and definitely covering more surfaces including the kids. With water being a precious commodity clean faces, legs, arms and nostrils just wasn't happening. As well as the red dirt Karijini has some spectacular gorges and waterholes with cool clear water which are so much more refreshing after a hot walk. Circular pool so cool it literally took our breath away.
Staying out of the heat
Red dirt everywhere



We drove into Port Headland staying only long enough to check for school work, buy supplies and fill up with water. We settled at a free camp spot by the De Grays river. With the weather warming up finding this spot with shade and plenty of water meant an overnight stay turned into 5 nights. We had travelled some long distances and the fuel expenses were getting too much so a find like this helps so much. It was here we ran into our travelling friends from Coffs Harbour we met back in Ballarat and decided to travel the next leg into Broome and the Kimberley together.
The girls beauty regime

We zipped into 80 mile beach and spent the day collecting too many shells to practically keep and headed further north to Barnhill station. Here we not only had more beautiful shells and stunning sunsets but we also got there in time for the Sunday night shin dig and dinner. The kids had almost as much fun dancing as the grey nomads did. 
Going to miss the WA sunsets
Busta is looking well and truly lived in with either red dirt or sand building up under the seats. But housework is not high on the list of priorities, it never has been a favourite pastime of mine, so with a quick sweep and wipe we are off again to explore more beautiful parts of Australia.